I caught my first wave on a polystyrene single fin in Melkbosstrand when I was 12 years old and decided then and there that I wanted more, a lot more.

We lived in the middle of South Africa throughout  my school-going years, so I only got to surf during holidays, which I think in a way put me on the big wave path. My time in the ocean was precious, because I didn’t have it every day,  and the less crowded the spot, the more waves I got, so I found myself rather surfing big close outs or outer reefs with long paddle-outs alone than more “rideable” waves that were crowded. When I finished school I headed straight for Cape Town to continue my search for uncrowded waves in earnest. The first real big wave spot I surfed was a left near Koel Bay called Paranoia, after that it was the Outer Kom, then The Factory, then Sunset and then Dungeons. I never really had the urge to go to the more well-known spots like Mavericks and Waimea Bay because of the crowds, but after a while the lure of riding those waves became too much and I traveled to the Northern Hemisphere and surfed Waimea Bay, Sunset, and Makaha in Hawaii, Mavericks in Northern California and Todos Santos in Mexico.